When you can’t explain, you blame the forces of nature.
Welcome to Saphaw, the Castle of Beino. Beino, Bieno Boinu, Tuipui, Kolodyne, Kaladan, Chhimtuipui- Lasi Lalnu, The River Queen of Spirits. And Saphaw is her Castle.
It’s a geological marvel. A Nat Geo Material. A mind blowing experience. The craftsmanship of nature. My heart will go on.
A sprawling alley of rocks on the both sides of the river is the canvas. The current of water rushing downstream is the artist, the sculpture and the painter. Saphaw is result of this, a magnificent art and a marvelous creation.
There are few places I long to return. This is one of them. What immortal hand or eye, could frame this beautiful symmetry?
The road to Saphaw
Access to Saphaw is via Lungdar (Lodaw) in Maraland or Tuidang on the Lai district side in South Mizoram. The location on the map.
The route to Lungdar is from Kawlchaw to Phura to Lungdar. The road to Lungdar has been newly finished. It was being constructed at this time of Pu Kunal’s visit. Pu Kunal IAS during his tenure as the DC of Saiha traveled Maraland far and wide. I read through his blog in one seating.
Tuidang is accessible from Lawngtlai via Bungtlang South. There’s a direct bus service from Lawngtlai to Tuidang/Hruitezawl at the time of my visit in Feb 2013. There is always the option of riding a sand lorry like I did from Tuidang to Bungtlang S.
You will need a boat. A motor boat will cost anything upward of 500 rupees. Be reasonable but bargain.
In my case, I came up from downstream Lomasu(Longmasu). I walked from Palak Dil to Lomasu via Tongkolong and Bymari the previous day. I hired a boat from Lomasu all the way to Saphaw. I paid 2200 rupees. The usual rate is 1500 from Lomasu to Lodaw (Lungdar). I had to pay extra owing to shallow level of water, the price has gone up.
If I return to Saphaw here is how I would do. I will hire a row boat. To fully admire the beauty of Saphaw you need to stop and stand still, pause and tiptoe. This was a bit cumbersome with a motorboat. The engine noise and the ripples created by the propeller disturb the peace. Then get off the boat. Climb and explore on foot.
To know the in an out of Saphaw, hire a guide. A local elder and a good story teller who knows Saphaw. It would cost you about 200 rupees.
Best time to visit
Outside of monsoon when the level of water will be low. And when the road to Tuidang and Lungdar will be in usable condition.
No doubt, Saphaw is great. My photographs aren’t. They are far from portraying the real beauty of Saphaw. You got to see it for yourself before it’s all over TV, magazines and the internet.
Will you visit Saphaw?
Please be reminded you can click on the image for a bigger resolution.